Epistles and pictographs at Ephesus

Ephesus is one of the most beautiful ruins we have ever visited.  Although only fifteen percent of the site has been excavated — so much more is yet to unfold! — its stunning location, cosmopolitan atmosphere and sophisticated lifestyle are easily able to be determined from the ruins.

Ephesus was started by the Greeks, and became a centre for the worship of Artemis whose temple was not far from here, so the early bones of the city are Greek.  Ionic.   And incredibly elegant.

The harbour waters once lapped the feet of the city.  Ships came from afar and sailors and merchants from different lands sauntered up the blinding white stone road into Ephesus: carrying goods, slices of different culture, change.  

A road of marble

At the time St Paul came to this part of the world to preach, Ephesus was the capital of the Roman province of Asia. The Romans dramatically expanded Ephesus.   St John came later spreading the word.  And as Christianity overtook the cult of Artemis at Ephesus, pilgrims came in droves. 

Visitors could walk up from the harbour to the Great Theatre,  stopping for a quick refreshing drink at the Greek fountain enroute, walking past the tunnel-like space that was likely the actors entry, into their seats in the amphitheatre.    Performances were well attended.  Acoustics were second to none and VIPs had marble seating with softly upholstered cushions for comfort.  Twenty-five thousand guests could be entertained at any one time.  

Virtually indestructible stone seats 

After the performance they would head out on to the massive marble slabs into the lower Agora, the market place, the main shopping area. This vast open courtyard was bordered by a shaded portico of columns and canopies protecting little shops with their wares displayed in etched stone on their frontage: a fish for the seafood shop, an olive branch for olive oil purchases; a cleaver for the butcher.  Shop signs, similar to today. 

Pictograms everywhere

Here visitors would find a cosmopolitan mix gathered in the marketplace: the city fathers called the curettes; local politicians: possibly even Julius Caesar shopped here; or Mark Antony and Cleopatra.  There is a marble tomb not far from the Agora that is said to be Cleopatra’s sister’s, so anything is possible.   There would be seedy sailors, eager souvenir hunters, awe-struck pilgrims and toughened slave marketeers, all mingling with the local Ephesians, clusters of folk in togas chatting under the shade of a market stall awning.

Lower Agora

The first time visitor would walk passed the Library of Celsus, marvelling at its slender Corinthian columns, grand doorways and niches bearing statues representing Wisdom, Knowledge, Intelligence and Bravery. 

Just one of the niches

This library was the third largest in the ancient world, behind Alexandria and Pergamom; and it was a masterpiece in shiny white polished marble slabs, its scrolls of animal skin rolled on shelves.  Though the Romans soon learned to stack this new parchment on one side, then bind it at one end, creating books.  Some 12,000 books were once stored here, and used by the citizens, and the visitors. 

One of the most beautiful ancient libraries

Further up the hill the visitor would find the public latrines.   Quite communal in Ephesian times.  Forty marble public toilets surrounded an open marble courtyard with a softly flowing fountain. Patrons used sponges on sticks for hygiene, and the toilet seat was cut away to hold the stick when not in use.  Water channelled beneath the loos carrying the waste to the sewer, while another channel of fresh water for washing up ran in front of the loos.   Very much like an expensive spa.  

Communal marble loos 

Climbing further a visitor could find water at Trajan’s fountain.  The wealthy who had palatial homes in high places in Ephesus had their own plumbing and drinking water; but fountains were the main source of water for the citizens, who filled their urns here before heading home.  On hot days the city fathers had another trick up their sleeves to keep everyone cool: they simply unplugged the fountain and water would flow, trickling out over the marble slabs, lowering the city temperature like a large evaporative cooler.  

One of the many fountains

The visitor would soon arrive at Hercules Gate.  Here, the chariots had to turn, or take the detour road like a truck route, down to the busy Harbour bustling with ships, as they were not allowed to drive further up. The road uphill now becomes more of a pedestrian path, the Sacred Way with street stones hatched to give sandals a good grip, and under-road drainage rerouting any fountain or rain water.   Traders, sailors and merchants not understanding the local language could find their way around the city using great stones carved with pictograms, giving easy direction to all.  

Hercules Gate marked the boundary for chariots and pedestrians

Up past the Prytaneion a visitor would go.  This was the building where six of the highest city officials and priests regularly met to solve city problems.  Right in front of them, the Eternal Flame burned constantly in a depression that looks a little like an infinity pool.  With street lanterns lit and flames sparking evenings would have been spectacular. 

A little further up is the Odeon: an intimate small theatre where about 1500 patrons might see a play or listen to a concert.  The theatre doubled as a sort of civic hall and oftentimes the Council, some 450 of them, would gather here, to assist the decision makers with city problems.  Those in the elegant front seats had marble armrests carved into lion’s feet for comfort.   

Such detail on each of the seats

Out into the Stoa Basilica the visitor would go: a long ceremonial walkway lined with columns and merchant stalls, heading to the State Agora near the top, crowded with people.  Some 250,000 people lived in Ephesus at its peak.  

Hill palaces are still unexcavated above the upper Agora

But, even at its peak, Ephesus had structural problems and the massive population did it no favours.  

Roman drainage was among the best in the world.  No civilisation knew more about how to access water or how to drain it.   But over time the aqueducts and pipes channelling waste at Ephesus, took everything downhill.  Gradually the harbour silted up, leaving the city high and dry.  

Sadly, tolling the death knell for the very beautiful Ephesus that once was.

oooOOOooo