Here the camels rested

Once upon a day in 1229... 

The day was weary and dusty for the silk route merchants as they lead their camels in a long line from the east.  The colours on the horizon foretold a windstorm coming their way.  They desperately needed shelter.  Their camels, heavily laden, strung out in a caravan, but secured together with tassels and twisted ropes, were protesting loudly:  yowling, with their yellowing teeth exposed.  They were ready for food and for water.   One of them, Rashid, has an abcess in the web of his foot between his two toes that needs lancing.  Another, Ahmid, was limping, and had flies over an old leg wound which could do with a poultice.  Soon.  Soon, they would stop.

Camels of the east

Luckily, shelter for the night and protection against unruly raiders appeared on the horizon in the last light of day.   By all prophecies, this was the new caravanserai at Sultanahani.   The first time they had seen it.  To reach this stop, enroute from Persia and the lands of the Mongols before that, had taken them all of a day, a draining 40 kilometres of slow trudge, which was as far as the beasts of burden were prepared to move in one turn of the sun.  Add to that the many many days beforehand, and they are all bone weary, men and beasts.   The Selçuks know of their travails, and like other good folk across these  lands, have built shelters to care for them, for their goods and their animals.  

Caravanserai at Sultanahani

The Sultanhani caravanserai looked like a palace to the weary traders as they approach.  And it was built like one.  Great blocks of volcanic tuff had been pulled from the earth from around these parts, and hewn into giant rectangular blocks, set atop each other in a large walled rectangle.  There was little decoration to be seen on the external walls apart from some tuff turrets and curved alcoves which helped create space, and give much strength to the high walls.  

The lone entrance to the complex was through a double fortified iron door set into  a giant marble portal.  

Iron door in portal 

The marble is coloured in veins of pink and blue and white, and decorated elaborately  in patterns similar to some that are on the carpets and fabrics they have rolled on their camels’ backs for trade: geometric, interlocking, intricate.  Typical of the times.  In this year of Allah, being 1229.  It is beautiful.  One of the most beautiful porticos they have seen.  

Exquisitely adorned

Leading their camels through the portal the traders felt as if they are walking into a royal palace.  They rarely saw such luxury. The great external walls of tuff enclosed a massive open courtyard: built for days when the weather was fine and fair.   Here the camels could spit and snort and sleep after their packs had been unrolled, and the caravanserai animal doctor might find time to dress Ahmid’s wound, and, Allah be praised, lance Rashid’s ailing tumour.   And the animals would be given fodder, and be rested by the porters.  Life was good.  

Open courtyard, arched on all sides

Tonight, though, the weather bodes poorly.  Traders and animals will need to be moved into the covered arched courtyard to the right, for shelter from the wind and mayhap, later, the rain.    Here, they are beseeched to throw down their travel packs and their beddings, and rest.

For three days they are welcome here, quite freely and looked after thoroughly by the Selçuk  folk.  This is their way. A welcome for long distance travellers.  A kindly attendant brings across a tray of small silver goblets filled with a warmed infusion from the Mutfak.   It is refreshing. They sit on their rugs sipping and watching for the few minutes they have before the call to prayer in the mosque.

Arched beauty in the passages

With lamps and torches lit all over the caravanserai they can now take time to see the new mosque.  It stands on decorative arches and rises up a second story.  It is the only structure permanently built occupying space in the courtyard.  Its walls, too, are covered with interesting and intricate designs. The architect really was an artist.  One of the best in Anatolia. Though it has been said that he is a Syrian from Damascus by the name of Muhammed Bin Havlan El Damasci.   But still, a fine architect, to have accomplished all this. Such beauty may last forever.  

Intricate Moorish influences

On the far side of the courtyard they can see rooms with doorways. They make out the kitchen with its tandoor oven and can smell the charring of the bread, meat and peppers they will likely be offered for their evening meal.  Already they are salivating.  Further down, one of the doorways leads to a hammam.  Later, they will bathe and have a massage and, Allah be praised, all the aches and pains of the day will be rubbed away.  

The call to prayer echoes around the covered courtyard, and they reach for their beads, wash, and spend time on their knees in the mosque thanking Allah for this day.  

After prayers they take time to explore the massive structure at the rear of the palace.  This is entered through another elaborate portico, which they can see is richly decorated in the soft light of lamps. 

Another gorgeous portico

Inside is a monumental space filled with arches and a domes, like a grand basilica, illuminated only by arrow slits letting in the last rays of evening light, making it feel warm and cosy and welcoming.  

Arches everywhere

Various corners are occupied by merchants, ready and eager to trade goods for those of the camel traders. This is where they can gather any supplies they are running short of.  Here, too, they can sit and talk.  Not just with other camel traders, but with all kinds of travellers: pilgrims, noble folk, strangers from different lands who have also come a long way and are resting here.

Traders gathered under the dome

Here, under the dome, they can spend the evening, catching up on the latest news and commerce of the region as they trade their trinkets and treasure, followed by dinner,  before they return to a welcoming bedroll.  

Artifacts of the age 

Outside, the windstorm begins to rage as night falls heavily, but Allah be praised, all is right with the world behind these walls.  Tonight they can rest safely, with food in their bellies, and their animals watered and snoring.   

What more can a busy traveller need?

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